5-minute oil change is a lie. The car ahead of me has been in there for over half an hour. I cannot leave because there are cars behind me, blocking me in. I think this lady has seen more filters than an AC repairman.

Update: Car ahead of me took 50 minutes. I pulled into the bay and sat for 10 minutes. They did nothing and I finally left.

    • @Montagge@lemmy.zip
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      4 days ago

      If you care at all about your car please follow this advice.

      Quick lube places survive off of up sells like wipers, belts, and filters. Plus they’ll impact on your oil drain plug which will strip and stretch the threads. The oil filter will go on with no oil on the gasket, and every single ugga they can dugga will be used to tighten it on there. The oil they use is the cheapest they can find.

      Find a good mechanic that won’t try to sell you every minor repair your car needs.

      • @bobs_monkey@lemm.ee
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        64 days ago

        I’ve been using Valvoline, but I bring my own oil and filter, and they actually do use a torque wrench on everything I can tell. It’s $60 (with coupon) for my 6.7 that I also have them rotate my tires, I’m in and out in 30 min, and I don’t have to dispose of the oil. Just turn down the the other services, especially the air filter (that I typically replace while I’m waiting in line), and they’re not too bad. I just wish they’d do my fuel filters, but LiAbIlItY.

      • @Rai@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        44 days ago

        I used to go to a quick change place until yep, they did indeed strip the threads of my drain plug. The next oil change I got was at a nicer place and cost less. They replaced my drain plug. I just had to drop it off for a couple hours.

    • @yesman@lemmy.world
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      94 days ago

      It’s important to use a regular shop for routine maintenance because you’ll build a relationship for when something major goes wrong. The extra cost is worth it.

      Plus, imagine what kind of “mechanic” works in these places. Accepting low wages implies they can’t get a job at a real shop because they suck, or because they have no experience.

    • Rhynoplaz
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      74 days ago

      Yup, I used to hit up those places because quick and cheap are my favorites!

      But, sure enough, one of them screwed everything up so bad, the next place refused to even attempt it.

      The dealership where I bought my last car offers free inspections each year, so I just have them do the oil during that.

  • 🇰 🌀 🇱 🇦 🇳 🇦 🇰 🇮
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    3 days ago

    The 10-minute lube place I use really only takes 10 minutes for an oil change. And if they are performing other services, they have a whole different set of bays to use so the quick lube line isn’t stuck behind someone getting their entire engine tuned up or someshit. It’s still cutting it close, while using a tool to blow the oil out quicker than gravity, too. So just hearing a place say they can do it in half the time sounds like a lie and a half.

  • themeatbridge
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    134 days ago

    The reason that an oil change should take time is that it takes a while for all of the used oil to drain out. That’s why commenters are recommending you do it yourself, because you can leave the car for 20 minutes to just drain. Then you remove the filter, and don’t be surprise if more oil drains out. Replace the filter and then refill with oil.

    Quickie Lube places that promise a 5 minute change are either lying about the time or lying about changing the oil. You would also control how frequently the filters are changed. You don’t have to change the filter as often as the oil, but certainly every other oil change. I replace mine every time, but I recognize that’s probably unnecessary.

    All in, the process will take you about an hour, maybe longer the first time you do it. A pro with all of the equipment laid out and a proper garage can cut it to 30 minutes at best.

  • @CommissarVulpin@lemmy.world
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    124 days ago

    If you have the space, I would recommend learning how to change your oil yourself. It only takes some basic tools and can save you a lot of money in the long run.

    • FenrirIIIOP
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      144 days ago

      No luck in that department. Garage is too tight and sloped enough to make me worried about getting under the car

      • @XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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        4 days ago

        My driveway is uphill to the garage. I point up hill, use ramps, chock the rear tires, and only slide in from the front.

        But I do hate doing oil changes. Oil gets everywhere on the tools, everywhere on my hand when I get the filter, everywhere on the ground when it splashes, and everywhere on the outside of the containers. Then it lightly oils everything between my garage on the disposal site. But, once I stopped getting $45 employee pricing on dealership synth blend changes and started getting $120+ normie pricing, I got fed up. I liked having a professional, trusted mechanic have eyes under a lifted car rather than my casual eyes laying under ramps, but shit, prices are absurd. Hello Kirkland oil.

        I also hate splash shields. They’re mildly infuriating. I got the harbor freight Maddox oil filter socket set and now can generally avoid removing splash shields on my fleet

          • @XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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            53 days ago

            I don’t have any stat points left to git gud :( automotive has fallen from beloved hobby to strictly necessity

        • @Montagge@lemmy.zip
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          43 days ago

          Get yourself something like this https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/garage-guard/tools---equipment/garage---shop/clean-up/oil-absorbent/8e58b6d289f2/oil-dri-garage-guard-3-x-5-foot-oil-absorbent-rug/oil2/l90693?pos=9

          Nitrile gloves are your friend!

          Some oil filters you let drain for a little bit before removing. My frontier even has a little drain channel so I can drain it into the drain pan with the filter loose. Then I take it off. There’s a lot less mess than if I just rip it off fast! Not sure it that applies for you or not!

          I’m not sure what the rules of your disposal site are, but I use a 3 gallon (I think) waste oil container that I take into O’reilly Auto when it’s full. I just put it on some old cardboard or something during transport to keep it from getting oil on other stuff.

          For tools you can clean them with pretty much any degreaser from brake cleaner to dish soap. I don’t recommend the brake clean lol. For the most part I have dedicated oil change tools since all I need is a 14mm and a 15mm wrench to do all 3 of my vehicles.

          • @XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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            43 days ago

            You make good points. Truthfully, I only got back into doing it myself within the last 2 years. I haven’t done any vehicle more than twice. Somehow I always think I’m too good for the gloves and today will be the day I do it cleanly - only to use the same value in paper towels. Unfortunately, I know at least 3 filters are bottom-mount vertical. They have oil sitting in the galleys above it and spill more as they wobble off. I’ll have to check the drain plug sizes and see. I’m sure there’s repeat sizes, all being metric. I do use brake clean for the final spray since I’m not aware of any other nogrinse degreasers (also haven’t looked)

            I do kind of enjoy my 300cc motorcycle. The drain plug is on the kickstand side (good with the lean) and the filter is a cartridge type that lives high on the block and on the not-kickstand side. Basically all the drip is from playing operation with the cartridge on the way out. And it only takes 1.4qt.

        • @psycho_driver@lemmy.world
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          33 days ago

          I also hate splash shields. They’re mildly infuriating. I got the harbor freight Maddox oil filter socket set and now can generally avoid removing splash shields on my fleet

          Probably the worst part about oil changes on modern cars. Engineers don’t put a lot of thought into making them quick and easy to take off and put back on, from my experience.

          • @XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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            43 days ago

            Small screws, unsure c-clip nuts, plastic/plastic panels that flex away, mystery grime, and too many screws. I’d have no qualms if the nuts were rigid in the body and used machine threads.

            I did at least eventually have an epiphany and realize that it’s not a 5.5mm hex on my strictly-metric Fords, but rather a 7/32in or some bullshit.

    • @adhocfungus@midwest.social
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      33 days ago

      What do you do with the used oil? When I was a kid my family would dump it in big barrels, then we’d bury them once they got full. Obviously not something I want to do now. But I’ve asked the oil change places around here and they charge a fee to take the used oil.

      • @Quadhammer@lemmy.world
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        43 days ago

        If they sell oil they have to dispose of used oil. Never heard of anyobe charging a fee. They re refine it anyway

      • @CommissarVulpin@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        Check auto parts stores, they should take it. However, they won’t take it if it’s contaminated with anything, like coolant. So instead I take it to my local dump, they have a place to dispose of oil and other fluids for free. Maybe that’s an option for you as well.

  • Annoyed_🦀
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    54 days ago

    How do they even 5min those car with fully covered engine splash guard? I usually take 30min to do oil and filter change and then check the fluid and air, 5min mean they did none of those, and the oil isn’t even drained.

    • dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️
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      4 days ago

      They typically intend (and indeed, try to) use their machine to suck all the oil out of the dipstick tube and replace it via the same. That’s generally doable within the 5 minute allocation but it’s also only half of the job since that inevitably involves not replacing the oil filter.